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The Place
Yoon Dong-Ju Literature Museum: A Museum Dedicated to Korea's Most Beloved Poet
Foreword
by Korean Literature Now
The Place
The Chungwoon Literature Library: the First Ever hanok Library in Korea
Hello!I’m Florian Krapf—German on the
outside,
by Korean Literature Now
The Place
Boan Books: A bookstore and Cultural Venue of 80 years
Hello!
I’m Florian. I might look like your average German guy, but inside me beats the heart of a true Korean.
Florian Krapf
Competed in the Netflix reality series Physical: 100
Guest starred in the MBC every1 series Welcome, First Time in Korea?
The Place Seochon Literary Tour: Boan Books
It’s great to meet all the viewers of KLN.
I’m really into Korean literature too.
Right now I’m walking through Seochon.
Located between the east side of Inwangsan Mountain and the west side of Gyeongbokgung Palace, and designated a Hanok Preservation Area alongside the Insa-dong and Bukchon districts.
In addition to being one of Korea’s most popular tourist attractions, also a major Seoul transport hub as well as a focal point of history and culture.
by Korean Literature Now
The Place
Ina Books: A bookstore boasting a collection of over 5,000 books
A eye-catching brick building in the concrete jungle of Gangnam, Seoul A bookstore boasting a collection of over 5,000 books Nice to meet you. I am Jeongmin Baek, the manager of the Seolleung Branch of Ina Books. Choi Ina, the CEO, opened the store with office workers in mind. She wanted to create a space for office workers to easily find books to read. Q. Ina Books arranges books in a unique way. Why? Unlike the typical classification used by libraries, we curate books by special topics. Some examples are, “Twenty-something and feeling lost,” “Thirty-something and flooded with worries,” and “Running out of ideas and needing inspiration.” When the bookstore first opened, our CEO felt that people these days prefer YouTube over paper books. She came up with the unique classification when she realized that people turn to books for solutions. Q. Another name that Ina Books goes by is “A bookstore that sells culture.” What does this mean? For five years, we have been running a program called Classic Bookstore Concert. We hold classical concerts with the pianist Song Youngmin, and offer art history classes taught by the art history scholar Ahn Hyunbae, integrating literature and arts into the space. We are planning many programs that instill the ability to think and gain insights on life. Q. You have a special subscription service that delivers books unknown to readers until they open their packages. How are the books selected? The service is called Ina Books’ Book Club. At the start of each month, we send a book to subscribers along with a letter written by Choi Ina, our CEO. The book remains secret to create a sense of anticipation. The key question we ask ourselves is, “Does the book contain meaningful insights?” We find joy in discovering good books and introducing them to readers. Q. Top 3 books recommended by the manager of Ina Books The first book I’d like to introduce is Kim Choyeop’s If We Can’t Go at the Speed of Light. First of all, I must say I really enjoyed reading it. Described as a writer who is continuing the legacy of Korean SF, Kim Choyeop offers a fresh perspective in the genre. If you read it, you will find delightful surprises and insights at the same time. You will feel your view of the world naturally expanding while reading. The second book is Seven Years of Darkness by Jeong You Jeong. The writer is one of the best in genre fiction. She was invited to our book talk session once, and you could tell she was deeply immersed in her work. You cannot help but immerse yourself in the story, and time will fly by before you know it. I recommend it to those looking to experience the pleasures of reading. The last book is Whale by Cheon Myeong-kwan. The book is still a steadyseller even though it was published in 2004. The solid plot keeps you engrossed throughout, and it’s hard to put the book down. The book explores diverse narratives through the lives of various characters. You will come upon people from all walks of life, which will evoke all kinds of emotions. You will be able to feel the joy of literature. Q. Is there a good place for reading near the store? Across the street is Seonjeongneung, a huge tomb with a forest-like path. Seoul, including Gangnam, is full of concrete jungles. The experience in Seonjeongneung is like being in a forest. It’s the perfect place to read or take a walk, and I highly recommend it. There’s a book called Seolleung Walk by Jeong Yong-jun. Seonjeongneung will be a great place to read it. Q. What are your plans for Ina Books? We believe in the power of offline. There’s a certain energy that is generated when you meet in person. We will think of ways to get people to actually visit the bookstore, and continue working on presenting a diverse selection of books. Thank you. Translated by Park Kyoung-lee
by Korean Literature Now
The Place
The Translator’s Book Store: Specializing in Translated Literature
A bookstore by day and a translator’s study by night, Mapo-gu, Seoul. I am Park Seon Hyeong, a translator and owner of the Translator’s Book Store. The Translator’s Book Store is a bookstore with a collection of translated books curated by a translator. I specialize in the Japanese language, working mostly on essays and books on humanities and philosophy. Q. What made you, as a translator, open a bookstore? I worked as an editor for a publishing company, and collected many Western books as part of being a translator. I wanted to share the books I loved and knew were worth recommending. That’s what led to the opening of The Translator’s Book Store. Q. Who are your major patrons? They range from publishers to translators and writers. We also attract many people living in the neighborhood. I’m proud of the strong bond we have with our patrons, most of whom are genuine book lovers. Q. How do you choose which books to introduce each week? I try to introduce at least 30 titles. I go over press releases to pick the latest books in the market. I always include books by writers or publishers I have been interested in. I also introduce books that might go out of print so that people won’t miss out on the opportunity. I try to strike a balance between new and old books. Q. Are there programs unique to The Translator’s Book Store? I have taught “Learn Japanese by Reading” for five years since the store’s early days. It’s one of the most popular programs. Participants not only read books in the original language, but also learn the skills of translation. “Translated Book Concert,” a program launched this year, is held on the third Thursday of every month. The program introduces novels, and plays LP records to accompany the stories. It’s one of the few programs that combine literature and music. I am very satisfied with the positive reception. Q. Top 3 books recommended by The Translator‘s Book Store Books on art and classics have been quite popular. Among the top three is What Artists Do. It’s a recent book by Leonard Koren, a writer with unique views of art. The book contains his thoughts on being an artist. I recommend it to those interested in the difference between art careers and regular jobs. The second book is Kusamakura. Natsume Sōseki has quite a number of dedicated readers in Korea. One of his more popular books here is Kusamakura. It’s a book that summarizes the writer’s views of art. The book has literary and artistic depth, and reading it is similar to reading a haiku. Lastly, there’s the picture book The Boy, the Mole, the Fox and the Horse. This book is not simply a picture book, but a philosophical book that can be enjoyed by adults. It contains universal truths and heartwarming drawings. I am aware it has been translated into many languages. Since the translated versions come in the same size, it will be interesting to read and compare them. Q. Is there a good place for reading near the store? Mangwon Hangang Park is nearby. Enjoying a picnic over a book will be a much-needed break from life. Q. What are your plans for The Translator’s Book Store? I’d like The Translator’s Book Store to introduce even better books. I’ll have to continue actively reading. I want to maintain this space for as long as I can, I hope everyone visiting the store can read and relax to their heart’s content. Translated by Park Kyoung-lee
by Korean Literature Now
The Place
Wit N Cynical: Bookstore dedicated to poetry
A vibrant, lively street in Hyehwa-dong, Jongno-gu, Seoul.
Dongyang Bookstore has been around since 1953.
The poetry bookstore Wit N Cynical sits atop a spiral staircase.
Hello. My name is You Hee-kyoung, and I’m a poet.
I’m also the owner of this small poetry bookstore.
You may be surprised on your first visit.
You’ll find a bookstore on the ground floor.
And then there’s another bookstore at the top of the spiral staircase.
It’s quite unique to have two bookstores together.
by Korean Literature Now
The Place
Onul Books: A curated bookstore
An ordinary residential area in Yangjae-dong.
Where sunlight pours in through the large windows,
and visitors feel as if they have traveled back in time.
Hello. I’m Kim Sooji, the manager of Onul Books.
Onul Books is a bookstore that opened in September 2018.
Our curated collection covers humanities, literature, arts, and picture books. From a broader perspective, we curate books by author and category. Our curation can also be narrowed down to books under the theme of color or books suitable for the season.
Q. There are sticky notes here and there in the bookstore. What do you write on them?
I write down memorable lines, interviews with authors, and reasons behind book recommendations.
I stick them throughout the bookstore to arouse the curiosity of potential readers.
Q. Please reveal more about your secret book section.
There’s a section called “Bundle of Secret Books” in the middle of the store. You can choose books based on the handwritten introduction, which leaves out typical information like the author. They are usually poetry, essays, and novels. These are the books you’d want to pick as a special gift for yourself or others.
Q. Telephone booths are hard to find these days. Why do you have one in the bookstore?
The “Secret Telephone Booth” is not meant to make phone calls, but allows you to listen to different sounds by pressing the numbers. For example, you can listen to the voice of James Joyce, the voice of Park Wansuh, the sound of waves, or the sound of a typewriter. I hope you will enjoy moments of peace and quiet in the booth.
Q. Top 3 books recommended by the manager of Onul Books
The first book I’d like to recommend is One Hundred Shadows, a novel by Hwang Jungeun.
This novel was a hit from the time it was published. It’s interesting how it can be read as a romance, and also from a social perspective. I often recommend it to those who visit the store to get their first taste of Korean novels.
The second book on my list is Dictionary of the Mind, a collection of essays by the poet Kim So Yeon.
The book can be seen as footnotes explaining words in the poet’s mind. The essays are written based on the poet’s unique interpretation of words such as “darkness” and “scent.” It is highly recommended to those looking for gifts to express their feeling to friends or family.
The third book I recommend is A Dream of Becoming Water, a picture book by Lucid Fall and Suzy Lee.
The bookstore is focused on humanities and literature, but there’s a separate corner for picture books. The book presents the lyrics of Lucid Fall’s song of the same title, together with illustrations by Suzy Lee. Designed like a folding screen, it can be folded out for reading in a large area. As you read the book, put yourself in the shoes of the child, turning into a fish and then a bird.
Q. Is there a good place for reading near the store?
Some nearby spots are the Yangjae Citizen Forest and Yangjaecheon Stream.
Yangjaecheon Stream is especially lovely in April, when it becomes pink with cherry blossoms. Reading outdoors is a worthwhile experience. There’s nothing quite like reading in nature. That’s why I recommend Yangjaecheon Stream and Yangjae Citizen Forest.
Q. What are your plans for Onul Books?
I hope for Onul Books to stay faithful to its role as a neighborhood bookstore. It will try to serve as a bridge between books and people, going a step further than simply buying and selling books. Onul Books plans to grow into a bookstore that actively communicates with diverse groups of people.
by Korean Literature Now
The Place
Spain Bookshop: A Spanish Haven in Seoul
A narrow alley leads to a small bookshop like a Spanish haven in Seoul. Hello, I'm Eva the bookseller who runs Spain Bookshop. I was in indie publishing and used to take my books around to a lot of bookshops. That's when I became interested in bookshops. It seemed like a fun way to get involved with nice people and projects, so I started my own bookshop. I decided I would need a theme if I wanted to keep the place running for a long time. So I thought about what I liked best, and that was Spain. It has a lot going for it, culturally and historically. I figured it would give me enough to fill the space, so I decided on Spain as my theme. Q. How did you become interested in Spain? It all started with Gaudí, the architect. I stumbled upon a book about him when I was in high school and that was the beginning of my interest in Spain. At first it was just wonder. 'I can't believe someone thought of buildings like that.' And so I became interested in Gaudí, who did a lot of his work in Barcelona. That got me interested in Barcelona, and then eventually all of Spain. Q. How do you decide on what books to stock at Spain Bookshop? Keeping to our theme, the first books we stock are related to Spain,and Spanish-speaking countries. They run the whole range of subjects. We stock literature, art, travel books. But it's not like so many books are published about Spain or Central and South America year-round, so we can't fill the shop with just those releases. So for the rest, I stock books that interest me on a case-by-case basis. (Spain Bookshop also stocks Spanish editions of Korean literature such as the Spanish translation of Sohn Won-Pyung’s novel, Almedra.) Q. What are your top three bestsellers at Spain Bookshop? First there's this essay collection, Barcelona, Living in the Now. It's a collection of essays from a two-year stay in Barcelona. Think sketches of everyday life, but set in Barcelona. There's just a whiff of a travel element but more than that, it's really about living in Barcelona. You can easily imagine yourself living there and get a vicarious sense of satisfaction. It's simply written but still manages to touch your heart which is why I'm very fond of it and recommend it to everyone. The next one is a Spanish phrasebook called AMOR365. The subtitle is, "A collection of Spanish phrases for lovers." As you may guess from the 365 in the title, It has one Spanish phrase about love for each day of the year. "No star shines as bright as your eyes." It's very popular with people studying Spanish, or people buy it as a gift for a friend or significant other that's studying Spanish. The third book is one we got fairly recently about the Camino de Santiago. It's about the French Way, the most popular route. The author went on the French Way many times before making this book. It's all done in watercolor. It's an accordion book. The entire Camino is about 800 km, from east to west. So this book is made to unfold from left to right,just like the Camino. Q. Are there any nice spots to read around here? In the spring or fall when the weather is nice, there's Namsangol Hanok Village right nearby. It's quite big, and they have lots of places to sit, so it could be a nice place to go with a book. Q. What are your plans for Spain Bookshop? I'd like to keep this place going as long as I can while still staying true to our theme. Spain really means a lot to me, so I'd like it if we could keep that focus. I think it would be great if it could become a lasting space for His panophiles. To build a community with like-minded people and to keep that interest going, that's the goal. Translated by Yoonna Cho
by Korean Literature Now
The Place
Gwangjang Market: Where History Breathes
There are three famous gwangjang (squares) in South Korea: Choi In-hoon’s monumental novel, The Square; the Seoul Gwangjang in front of City Hall, the place of candlelight protests; and the Gwangjang traditional market that boasts a hundred year history. Originally, Gwangjang Market was a name exclusive to a 3,000 pyeong shopping establishment that was privately owned by the Gwangjang Corporation, and located in the center of the market. It now refers to some 60 commercial buildings that are clustered around the Gwangjang Shopping Center. The market has a 300-year history if one looks at it from a historical perspective, and at least a 108-year history if one considers its establishment from 1905 when the Gwangjang Corporation was founded. In the latter part of the Joseon era, there were three large open markets in Seoul: The I-hyeon Market, open from early dawn to morning located near Dongdaemun; the Chil-pae Market, around what is now Namdaemun; and the Jongno Market, which opened in the evening. Among the three, I-hyeon Market was more renowned for its morning Baeogae Market. Baeogae was a hill that connected the areas of Jongmyo, Dongdaemun, and Cheonggyecheon. There are many stories regarding the genealogy of its name: that there were many pear trees (bae means pear); that it was the last point where a large boat crossing the Han River could reach through to Cheonggye Stream (bae also means boat); and that because of the frequent appearance of tigers, a hundred people had to gather together in order to go up the hill. Baeogae was a morning market that developed around this region. In 1910, the Joseon empire was annexed by Japan. But even before that, Korea had been hopelessly subject to all kinds of invasions by Japan. The circumstances of the markets were also bleak. The merchants, who had a strong sense of nationalism, united and established the Gwangjang Corporation on July 5, 1905. Despite much interference, Dongdaemun Market, Korea’s first privately owned market, came about at last. Before the annexation, the Japanese merchants who had developed the Jingogae (Myeongdong) area into a busy commercial center, opened five department stores after 1920. The Hwashin Department Store was built in Jongno. A very small number of people were able to go to Japan and engage in a luxurious shopping spree or shop at the Hwashin Department Store in Jongno. The market for the majority of the people during the Joseon era was Dongdaemun Market. Just as life would have been impossible for most Joseon people if the five-day market had not been maintained, everyday living would not have been possible had there not been a traditional market such as Dongdaemun during the Japanese colonial period. That is the reason why Dongdaemun Market could neither be expanded nor demolished. Dongdaemun Market was like a fortress. When the sun rose, the four gates on the east, west, south, and north opened and all kinds of items from the entire country started to pour in. Dried fish from the East Coast, coal from mines throughout the peninsula, as well as an assortment of paraphernalia from Japan and the West arrived. But it was agricultural products that were sold in the largest quantity. Fresh vegetables, seasonal fruit, and five grains were transported by horses and cows. Dongdaemun Market was known to have the largest number of agro-fishery products in all of Korea. The shops were categorized into three tiers. Tier one shops were located in tile roof houses and were wealthy enough to be able to place advertisements in newspapers. Tier two shops were all under tin roofs, and offered mostly agro-fishery products. The tier three shops were vendors who sold things on a mat under a somewhat shabby plank roof; they sold mostly miscellaneous household objects. Around 200 merchants owned the tier one and two shops, and the tier three sellers changed constantly. On average, around 2,000 customers visited daily. Dongdaemun Market was completely destroyed during the Korean War. Only the site of the building remained, but after the war the market became more vibrant. Survivors had to continue to live and the market was a necessity in order for people to go on living. The people who arrived in Seoul in great numbers from all parts of the country settled in the Cheonggyecheon area and as a result, the market region became completely packed with people. After the recovery of Seoul, there was a presidential order from Rhee Syngman to reconstruct Dongdaemun Market. President Rhee ordered three international-sized markets to be built in Seoul. The construction of the Gwangjang Shopping Center took place swiftly. From 1957 to 1959 a massive construction project commenced and finally in 1959, it was completed as the building it is today. In other words, the three-story concrete Gwangjang Shopping Center was newly constructed and maintained for 50 years until now in its present form. At that time, most of the buildings around the Cheonggyecheon area were traditional Korean style houses and as these buildings were mostly destroyed during the Korean War, the newly built Gwangjang Shopping Center was the most modern structure between Jongno and Dongdaemun. The Gwangjang Shopping Center was the tallest building around at the time, and the watchtower mounted on the roof must have made people feel as if they were looking down from a mountaintop. Seoul was the most popular overnight school trip destination for students from the provinces. Gwangjang Market was always included on the itinerary. Students climbed to the top of the watchtower of the Gwangjang Shopping Center building and looked out at the Dongdaemun area. They took pride in the fact that there was such a big market in Korea, and bought gifts to bring back for their parents from the Gwangjang Shopping Center. In January 2011 the novelist Park Wansuh passed away. She was an integral part of the history of Gwangjang Market. Her novel His House, published in 2004, records in detail the sights of the Gwangjang Market during the 1950s. It delineates the period from after the Korean War when there were hardly any buildings intact up to the post-War construction of the department store era.One cannot find a more detailed depiction of Dongdaemun Market than in His House. Park’s novel provides a very thorough description of the market as it was then, and the commerce that revolved around it. What is astounding is that things remain pretty much the same to this day. “It was called a department store or a dry-goods store but in actuality, it was simply a long pathway like an alley; and on both sides the merchants were allotted a single pyeong where they put up a stall without a partition or divider. In the back they hung loose fabric and piled up folded or rolls of fabric by the pathway, and the owner did the business, standing on top of the stall. It looked like an enormous dry-goods store when one just walked into the department store but it was a fierce arena of competition for many one-pyeong business proprietors.” Of course, the present day Gwangjang Shopping Center is no longer a “fierce arena of competition.” The stores are at least four to five pyeong in size. There are some that are over 10 pyeong. But the absence of partitions or boundaries remains the same, and fabric still hangs loose on the rear wall with the rolled up fabric piled up in a display case by the pathway. On November 13, 1971 a 22-year-old young man by the name of Chun Tae-il set himself ablaze in the Peace Market across from the Gwangjang Market, shouting “Obey the Labor Law!” “Let my death not be in vain!” The Gwangjang Market has a deep relationship with Chun Tae-il. The prodigious personal records he left behind was compiled by Cho Young-rae, and published into a book, A Single Spark: The Biography of Chun Tae-il. The following is a passage from the book:“The young Tae-il, who had to take on the responsibility of taking care of his family of six, took his younger brother, Tae-sam to the Dongdaemun Market to sell kitchen objects. They got things like trivets, brushes, strainers, brooms, and grills from a consignment store, paid back the price of the items, and then kept the profit. The trivet was relatively easy to make and therefore the two brothers bought the material from Dongdaemun and made them themselves on the rice paddy of Yongdudong where they lived.” Tae-il was only 13-years old then. It wasn’t just Tae-il and his family who were destitute, because in those days there were many children who had to work to support their families.The Biography of Chun Tae-il is filled with heartrending stories of his youth and the young girl factory workers he met in the Peace Market. Chun Tae-il was born in 1948, the year the Republic of Korea was founded. Most of the people from that generation underwent as much hardship as Chun Tae-il. The older merchants of the Gwangjang Shopping Center experienced as difficult a childhood and youth as Chun. What they remember the most are those difficult years—horrific childhoods because of poverty and war, when they were inhumanely treated while working in factories and marketplaces. A Single Spark: The Biography of Chun Tae-il is not only a story of one person but about the entire generation that lived during a very difficult period. “Lament” is a short story by Choi Il-nam that was published in the monthly magazine, Hyundae Munhak, in 1976. The protagonists, a married couple who sell fish in the market, have a dream. “When the couple somehow managed to survive while running a small shop in a market that was on the outskirts of the city, the wife talked about moving to Dongdaemun Market after several years of hard work. The husband yelled at his wife for being a piker, instead of dreaming big and closing down their small store for a much bigger and more reputable business. Then his wife replied that it was her wish to make a fortune in the grandest market with the same business that they began.” Hence, the Dongdaemun Market before 1976 was grand enough to be the subject of one woman’s life’s dream. The elder merchants remember the 1970s as the heyday of Dongdaemun Market. “There were so many customers that we didn’t have enough time to count our money. In those days, we could provide for our children until after college from our one to two-pyeong store. There was such a stream of customers from dawn to late night that our doorsteps got worn out. We were so busy that we sometimes forgot to eat.” The comedian, Kang Ho-dong, came to Gwangjang Market only once, but it gained the place new renown. The Mayor of Seoul, National Assemblymen, Cabinet Ministers, and the presidents of banks and companies have all paid visits to Gwangjang Market as well. Yet even if the president came wearing a hanbok along with the first lady at the bequest of merchants on festive occasions, these visits didn’t have nearly the effect of Kang’s visit. When Kang Ho-dong carried out his assignment of “Eat 10 Different Kinds of Food and Show 10 Different Reactions” for a TV program, Gwangjang Market instantly became known as the mecca of food. The attitude of the media’s coverage of the Gwangjang Market has changed according to the times. During the Japanese colonial period, it was known as the “greatest agro-fishery market in Joseon.” From 1960 to 1980, it became the largest fabric market in Korea, and then during the 1990s, silk, satin, linen, and cotton were popular items. Since the Asian financial crisis in 1998 to the early 2000s, secondhand stores and custom-tailored clothes were common. Recently, it has become known as a place to stop off for inexpensive food after taking a walk around nearby Cheonggye Stream. The majority of the stores in the Gwangjang Market still do business in fabrics and dry goods. However, fabric sales have plummeted in the poor economy and the silk and satin stores that now specialize mostly in hanbok are not doing very well. Even though the hanbok shops are empty most of the time, the secondhand stores are always crowded. There have always been many stalls and eateries in the small alleys that surround the market, but after the restoration of Cheonggye Stream, the dining business in the surrounding area suddenly revived. This is a rather unwelcome phenomenon from the perspective of Gwangjang Market. In the first half of the 1960s when the construction of the Gwangjang Shopping Center was completed, it was the most modern market in Korea. But now, it has become the biggest and the most famous traditional market. Embracing the most energetic and passion-filled years of millions of humble people, the place has aged along with the people. While everyone is caught up in the most cutting-edge, massive-scale, and luxurious styles available, renovating their shops to make them bigger, trendier, and more distinctive, Gwangjang Market is a place that tries to change with the times even as it is known as an embodiment of the past. 1. His HousePark Wansuh, Segyesa Publishing Co., Ltd.2012, 308p, ISBN 9788933801956 2. A Single Spark: The Biography of Chun Tae-ilCho Young-rae, Chun Tae-il Memorial Foundation2009, 340p, ISBN 9788996187424
by Kim Chong-khwang
The Place
Forest of Wisdom
Just a few kilometers from the demilitarized zone that separates North and South Korea, Paju is a somewhat surprising location for what has become the center of publishing and book culture in Korea. Paju Book City is a city dedicated to books—their printing, publication, and promotion. It aims to become the “book-hub of Asia.” In this book city nestled among publishing offices, online bookstore warehouses, and printing presses sits the “Forest of Wisdom,” a huge concrete building with three massive sections. Forest of Wisdom is currently home to over 200,000 books and before too long it will accommodate another 100,000. The books are mostly donations from publishing companies and some of them gave copies of every book they had ever published. Organizations and notable individuals have contributed as well. Traditionally, buildings that house such a large number of books have either been libraries or bookshops, but Forest of Wisdom is neither. The books there are not for sale, they cannot be loaned out, and they are not catalogued. Forest of Wisdom is something else entirely. In the last few years there has been a book café craze throughout Korea, where the walls of a coffee shop are filled with bookshelves laden with interesting books. Some book cafés are operated by well-known publishing companies like Munhakdongne or Changbi Publishers, Inc., who use them as a space to display and sell their books. Others are simply decorated with books that create an atmosphere where customers can sit with their coffee, relax, and spend some time with a book that catches their eye. With a coffee shop in its central hall, on first impression Forest of Wisdom seems like it must be the biggest book café in Korea, perhaps even the world—but in fact it is more akin to a vast interactive artwork. Explaining the rationale behind this forest of books, Kim Eounho, the chairman of Bookcity Culture Foundation, begins by talking about the beauty of books as artifacts, and how that beauty has a cumulative power, so that when books are displayed together they create the harmony of a choir, and an indescribable fragrance that transforms a space. Thus when lectures are held in these halls the content sounds more inspiring, and when musicians perform among the books the melodies are more beautiful. Over 100 events have already been held in Forest of Wisdom this year alone, including a performance by the Russian Philharmonic Orchestra as well as evening classes and programs as part of the Book City’s Open University. The Paju Book Sori Festival, a meeting point for publishers, editors, and authors from all over Asia, is also held among the books in the Forest of Wisdom, creating the perfect hub for learning and exchange. Kim Eounho says that rather than being a mere library, Forest of Wisdom is a book utopia, creating a new way of approaching and enjoying books. We go to libraries to track down specific books, looking them up in a database and hunting them down in the stacks, ignoring all the books around them. In Forest of Wisdom you cannot help but explore, browse the spines of books from shelf to shelf—reading titles, experiencing colors and textures, and taking out and opening up the ones that pull at your imagination. In this book utopia all books are equal before the reader, and on every shelf a myriad of worlds sit ready to inspire, just waiting to be opened. In all three halls books line the walls from floor to lofty ceiling. Even on a weekday there are plenty of people around, some browsing books, some studying or working at one of the many desks while others chat with friends over a cup of tea. On weekends the place is filled with families, as children and their parents line the stairs to the second floor, reading books and sharing new stories. The first hall is filled with books donated by different scholars. The idea is that visitors can find out more about these great minds by browsing through their book collections, thus they are kept together and each section is labeled with the name of the person who donated them along with their area of study. Looking through these personal collections, amassed over the course of the donor’s career, it is easy to see that successful scholars do not stick to just one kind of book. Among the volumes donated by a professor of English literature you can find books on philosophy, geography, music, and translation. As Kim Eounho says, children who read books are our hope for the future. This does not mean children who just “study hard” as the Korean saying goes, but for children who read widely and enthusiastically; because while school textbooks teach us that everything relating to a subject can be found in one place, the book collections of talented scholars demonstrate that those who have a wide understanding and interest in many fields are the ones who create new wisdom and advance the knowledge of humanity. Books, things themselves that have been created, are the start of other forms of creation. They are the greatest inheritance left to humankind. In Forest of Wisdom they have been brought together to be read, to be enjoyed, and to make their presence felt in a space which creates a new way of interacting with books and is sure to inspire generations of readers, writers, and thinkers. Kim Eounho: Kim founded Hangilsa Publishing in 1976 and Hangil Art Publishing in 1998. He is also head organizer of Paju Booksori, director of Hangil Book Museum, and chairman of Bookcity Culture Foundation.
by Kim Eounho
The Place
Jangheung - Where Writers Bloom
One of six designated “Slow Cities” in Korea, Jangheung rests near the southernmost part of the peninsula. Filled with more cows than people, this literary breeding ground is hometown to more than 70 contemporary writers. Jangheung’s Place in Your Heart Jangheung could be just another place among the southern provinces in Korea with blue seas, charming mountains, and warm breezes. In fact, describing Jeollanam-do’s (province) Jangheung county in such terms is not incorrect. If one has no special connection to Jangheung, it’s just another place in the south with plenty of sunlight—places like Gangjin’s White Lotus Temple (Baekryun-sa) with its narrow paths or Jangheung’s Hwaejin inlet. If you are somewhat more familiar with Jangheung, you might know that if an imaginary line was drawn straight down from Gwanghwamun in Seoul, it would bisect Korea into East and West, with its southernmost point passing through Jangheung. While Jangheung is symmetrically south of Seoul, it’s a poor geographical cousin to Gangneung, which is straight east of the capital. It’s not necessary to elevate Jangheung’s status just because of its linear symmetry with Gwanghwamun, however. Those who have traveled widely would probably refer first to the stirring sight of Eulalia grass fields on Mt. Cheon-gwan, while those of more refined tastes would point out that there are more cows than people in Jangheung county. Successively listing the features of this area brings more information to mind: razor clams, gaebul (edible marine spoon worms), and other marine products from Jangheung are considered to be the most delicious, and the Shiitake mushrooms grown in the region can only be purchased by paying a premium. But there’s more. Jangheung is one of only six “Cittaslow” (Slow Cities) in Korea. All the descriptions so far are points to keep in mind when planning a trip to this area, but they don’t do justice to Jangheung and cannot convey a full understanding of the region. When people dream of Jangheung, when the heart feels stifled and a sudden desire to run off to Jangheung moves us, we must instead turn to Korean literature to learn about this place. On a map draw a line between Gangjin and Boseong and then stretch this line wide—Jangheung county will be contained within the contours of this shape. But we shouldn’t stop here, because truly finding Jangheung requires us to draw out our emotions as if from a well. These emotions are normally buried under the busy schedules of our lives. Feelings of sadness, longing, and warmth are manifested here in Jangheung through the medium of literature. Have You Ever Heard of a Literary Tourism Zone? Jangheung can only be reached through literature. This statement is neither baseless propaganda nor an attempt to stir people up; it has a clear, legal basis. Although many people still don’t know this fact, Jangheung is Korea’s first Literary Tourism Zone. In 2008, the Ministry of Knowledge Economy designated three areas within Jangheung County as special zones, and nationwide, Jangheung is the only special tourism zone for literature. In effect, the Korean government has acknowledged that only Jangheung has the ability to draw tourists through literature alone. Jangheung has a long history as a literary center, with a startling 500-year literary tradition. The first example of gasa, an old form of Korean verse, was created in Jangheung by the poet “Gi-bong” Baek Gwang-hong (1522-1556), in his Gwanseo-Byul-gok (a book of gasa verse). Jangheung’s literary tradition continued to be passed down to subsequent generations even after Baek Gwang-hong was gone. He was followed by what came to be known as the “ Jangheung Troupe”: Wie Sae-jik, Roh Myeong-seon, Lee Sang-gye, Lee Joong-jeon, Wie Baek-gyu, and others who formed the base of Jeolla province’s literary tradition. Giyang-sa, built in honor of the poet Baek Gwang-hong still stands in Jangheung’s Anyang-myeon, Gisan-ri neighborhood. Part of Gisan-ri has also been designated as a special literary tourism zone. The soul of literary Jangheung county, however, is not to be found in long-lost ancient poetry. Jangheung’s literary magnificence stems from its stature as the blossom of contemporary Korean literature. According to data from the Jangheung County Office, more than 70 contemporary literati hail from this area. The novelists Song Kisook, Yi `Chong-Jun, Han Sung-won, and Lee Seung-U, the sijo (Korean verse) poets Kim Je-hyeon and Lee Han-seong, and the contemporary poets Wie Seon-hwan, Kim Young-nam, Moon Jeong-young, Lee Dae-heum, and others all hail from Jangheung. There are so many it’s difficult to list them all. Their literary achievements still resonate in Jangheung. Song Kisook’s The Mung Bean General, Yi Chong-Jun’s Snowy Road, Han Sung-won’s Port, Lee Seung-U’s “Saem Island” (Saemseom), and other famous works are so numerous that it is likewise hard to count them all. We could describe all of Jangheung as a living museum of Korean literature. In fact, even Jangheung County’s Chief, Lee Myeong-heum, is a poet who has published in various literary journals. Jangheung’s literary fiction heritage has been particularly dazzling, and there is ample reason why the region is called the home of Korean prose. Song Kisook’s (b. 1935) works are filled with historically-conscious narratives. Yi Chong-Jun (1939-2008) is a representative writer of the 4.19 generation (those that experienced the demonstrations in April 1960 that toppled the Syngman Rhee government) whose works are characterized by sentiments associated with the southern provinces. Han Sung-won’s (b. 1939) works are written from a uniquely religious worldview. In short, each of these major authors represents different genres of modern Korean literature. It is quite surprising that they were all born in the same region yet their works are all so different. If even one of these literary giants had been born in another village, that village would have constructed a literature center, established eponymous literature prizes, and effectively called attention to itself. By contrast, in Jangheung there are so many luminaries worthy of recognition that authorities have already given up on the task of selecting whom to honor. Instead, the entire county has been designated as a Special Tourism Zone for literature. This designation, however, creates another conundrum. Where should one go to experience literary Jangheung? First of all, Literature Park is located just below Mt. Cheon-gwan. Several hundred literary stone monuments dot the park. However, it can hardly be considered the only worthy pilgrimage site for Jangheung. Likewise, at the other Literary Tourism Zone in Gwansan-eup, Shindong-ri, there is little that has anything to do with Jangheung’s gems of Korean literature. It’s just another southern port village with fine views of the ocean. After much thought, I have therefore decided to introduce readers to several literary sites in Jangheung. One of these is still occupied by its owner, while the others are now empty, yet highly recommended. 1. Magnolia ParkLee Seung-U, Munidang1998, 326p, ISBN 89745608872. PortHan Sung-wonMunhakdongne Publishing Group1997, 344p, ISBN 97889828109163. This Paradise of YoursYi Chong-JunMoonji Publishing Co., Ltd.2003, 460p, ISBN 9788932008424 4. Snowy RoadYi Chong-JunMoonji Publishing Co., Ltd.1997, 244p, ISBN 97889320092785. The Mung Bean General, Vols. 1-12Song Kisook, Window of Times2008, 395p, ISBN 97889594011236. SopyonjeYi Chong-JunYolimwon Publishing Group1998, 224p, ISBN 8970631607 Han Sung-won’s Ocean & Mountain Den Han Sung-won’s house is located on the far western edge of Jangheung. At one end of Anyang-myeon, Yulsan Village overlooking Deukryang Bay, warm breezes blow throughout the four seasons accompanied by gentle rays of sunlight. It is here that Han Sung-won built his house, which he named Ocean & Mountain Den (Haesan-togul). Actually, however, this place isn’t Han’s original neighborhood. His original neighborhood was Hwaejin-myeon, just like that of author Yi Chong-Jun. After living far away from home, Han Sung-won came back to his hometown of Jangheung and settled here. Several years ago I visited the author at Ocean & Mountain Den and drank a cup of tea made from leaves which he had roasted himself. When I asked him why he didn’t return to the neighborhood of his birth, he replied, “For all intents and purposes, my current neighborhood is my birthplace.” He then chuckled. Ocean & Mountain Den could actually be described as being shabby. Although there is a pond in the yard, a bamboo forest planted out back, and a roof with red tiles, the grounds do not appear to be neatly maintained. The yard is thick with weeds and the pond water is muddy. But for some reason, this is much more charming—it is a completely natural scene, without any artifice or decoration. The deep blue of Deukryang Bay below Han Sung-won’s house is still fresh in my mind even today. As Han and I exited his house and walked along the coast lined with poetry steles inscribed with his work, I asked him what the source of Jangheung’s literary abundance was. His answer was as follows: “Among the mountains in Jangheung, there is one called Hundred Million Buddhas Mountain. (Ukbulsan) The Chinese character ‘Uk’ means ‘hundred million’ or ‘the people.’ You can find this in any Chinese dictionary. Therefore Ukbulsan is the people’s Buddha Mountain, or Maitreya (the future Buddha) mountain. In fact, halfway up Mt. Ukbul, there is a boulder called Daughter-in-law Rock which is said to bear the likeness of the Maitreya. Who is the Maitreya? Maitreya is a Buddha dedicated to enlightening mankind and leading them to enlightenment. In the present day, conveying the principles of life is the duty of literature.” 1. Birthplace of Yi Chong-Jun 2. Bolim Temple 3. Yi Chong-Jun Literature Memorial Yi Chong-Jun and Jangheung Despite what anyone might say, Jangheung is author Yi Chong-Jun’s home. Although Jangheung is also home to countless literary giants, no other author has incorporated it as extensively into their works as Yi. Wherever one travels in Jangheung, traces of Yi Chong-Jun remain. The Daeduk-eup bus stop was where he caught the bus to Gwangju to attend Seo Middle School. One hour away from Jinmok village, where he grew up, is Bolim Temple, where he used to enjoy drinking “Grain Tea” (a Buddhist euphemism for alcohol) with the abbot there. Bolim Temple appeared in Yi’s novel, White Clothes. Two of his novels, The Lost Temple and An Account of Humanist Mu Sojak’s Life, describe Mt. Cheon-gwan, which is famous for its fields of Eulalia grass (pampas grass) in the autumn. The set for the movie “Festival” was located at the easternmost edge of Jangheung, at the Nampo-ri village chief’s house. According to the records left by Yi more than 30 of his works have been derived from places and events in Jangheung. The movie set for “Beyond The Years” was located near Yi’s childhood home. The set is just 10 minutes away by car from the house in Jinmok village where Yi was born. Behind the movie set overlooking Deukryang Bay is a long mountain range beyond which Jinmok village is located. The highest peak among them, Avalokitesvara (Buddhist Goddess of Mercy) peak, was described by Yi as “closely resembling a seated Buddhist monk wearing robes.” Today the fields below Avalokitesvara peak have been drained for land reclamation, so rice paddies can no longer be found there. When Yi was a child, however, seawater sometimes flooded the fields. In those days, Avalokitesvara peak cast a shadow like a lone crane flying over the rice fields soiled by seawater. That image became indelibly imprinted in Yi’s mind, and he added it to his book Stranger of Sunhak-dong. The image of a crane’s shadow cast on the ground below was also featured in director Im Kwon-taek’s 100th feature film, “Beyond The Years.” Author Yi Chong-Jun’s birthplace was Jinmok village in Hwaejin-myeon, Jangheung County. He passed away on July 31, 2008, and was buried three days later on August 2, 2008 in his native village. In 2010, a stone monument called the Yi Chong-Jun Literature Memorial was erected near his grave. A foundation stone seven by seven meters forms the foundation upon which a large flat stone was erected. Author Yi Chong-Jun wasn’t tall, and he always shied away from attention, which is the reason his monument stone was intentionally kept diminutive. Yi Chong-Jun's Snowy Road Jinmok village, Yi Chong-Jun’s birthplace, is located on a hilltop where about 40 low-roofed houses faced the sea. In his novel Snowy Road, the narrator describes a “five-room house surrounded front and back with fields.” This was the very house in which he was born. Today, every room in the house contains Yi’s personal effects arranged together with his books, while his photographs hang on the walls. If you sit on the wooden floor there you’ll notice a clear view of the ocean. If you look out over the sea to the left, you can almost make out Sorok Island in the distance, which appeared in Yi’s bestseller, This Paradise of Yours. If you look to your right and follow the shipping lanes, you will see Cheongsan Island where Director Im Kwon-taek shot his famous Jindo Arirang sequence for the movie adaptation of Yi’s Sopyonje. When Yi Chong-Jun entered middle school, he left home for Gwangju to study. Around that time, family fortunes took a turn for the worse, obliging Yi’s mother to sell their house. One day Yi’s mother received word that her son would suddenly be stopping by. She implored the new owner of their house to allow him to sleep there for just one night. She was able to borrow the house for a day to see her son to bed. The next morning, Yi's mother left the house together with her son early in the morning. Mother and son made the uphill trek of about four to five kilometers through thickly-accumulated snow to get to the intercity bus terminal in Daeduk-eup. There Yi caught the bus going up to Gwangju, while his mother went back the way she came. The snow had piled up high that early morning. As she returns to Jinmok village, she tries to step in her son’s footprints dotted here and there in the snow. “My son, my son, please be healthy and happy.” While walking back home on that snowy road, mother is crying so much that she can hardly see. In the epilogue to his novel, Snowy Road, Yi made the following comment: “The narrative in Snowy Road contains many factual elements in the interaction between a student and his old mother. In fact, the scene in which they walk together in the early morning darkness to the bus stop is taken from my very own life. When I got on the bus to Gwangju, leaving my mother behind, I always wondered how she walked back home on that cold, snowy road. I did not dare ask her for fear of the pain her answer might cause me.” Since that day, author Yi Chong-Jun never again set foot of his own accord in his childhood home. Even when he led his fans on literary tours to his hometown, he only came to the edge of his old neighborhood before turning back. It was only in 2005, when the County Government bought and restored his childhood home, that Yi entered the house where he had been born. That snowy, inclined road still exists above the hill upon which Jinmok village is located. Now that a new highway hugging the coast to Jinmok has been built, the previous path, which used to be the village’s only link to the outside world, is long forgotten. The brush has now grown higher than one’s head, but we have to walk on that road. We need to walk on the thickly accumulated snow covering the road, stepping in the footprints dotted here and there just as Yi Chong-Jun’s mother did.
by Son Minho
The Place
The Secret of Suncheon Bay
It’s 5 a.m. in the morning. I pedal my bike hard. My hair is damp and my face is covered with drops of water although I’ve only been riding briefly. The fog shrouds all things from me, and thereby allows me to be completely alone; the fog turns all existing things into an island. Penetrating this fog, I am headed toward Suncheon Bay. The sound of the wind whizzing by my ears indicates the speed of my ride. I left the city behind me and it is quiet, still deep in slumber. The east stream, which runs through the heart of the city, merges from the darkness like a snake. Alongside the bike lane, there is a forest of reeds. It seems that the reeds have not awakened from their sleep either. They have not shaken off the darkness and remain damp in the fog. The reeds persevere in silence, one that was brought about by a tranquility that is not disturbed even by the breeze. When I reach Suncheon Bay after racing along the east stream, I shall be far away from this chaotic world. But I hope I can experience the freedom that isolation provides. What I like about the freedom I feel in the opaque fog is the absence of the smell of violence. I like this freedom that comes from profound solitude and tranquility. Instead of the ravishingly beautiful Suncheon Bay during the day, I prefer the mist-filled Suncheon Bay of the dawn without a soul around. Suncheon Bay is made up of a tidal flat that is surrounded by ria-(like) shoreline of about 39.8 kilometers. And on this tidal flat, one can find a 30,000 pyeong reed forest. The sea starts where the forest ends. But a vast tidal flat surfaces when it is low tide. On this tidal flat, there is a water pathway that remains hidden in seawater. That which is revealed by what was hiding is more astonishing than it is beautiful. Just like the river that harmonizes with the surrounding mountains as it curves, the pathway of the sea too runs naturally in accordance with the lows and highs of the tidal flat. The tidal flat is a moving river. It is the river beneath the sea. This water passage demonstrates the beauty of the invisible one who is devoted to its work. The life energy of the tidal flat lies in this water passage. Suaeda japonica Makino, a type of saltwater plant, blooms in the tidal flat of Suncheon Bay. Starting out as a young bud in the spring, then transforming itself into a red and burgundy hue when summer passes and autumn arrives, this plant changes its color a total of seven times. Forming a colony in the vast tidal flat, the Suaeda japonica offers a different palette of wardrobe for each season. And toward the sunset when the day comes to a close, it shines even more luminously in red with the color of dusk, thus amplifying the beauty of Suncheon Bay. The reed forest, which forms yet another colony on the tidal flat, looks like it is almost touching the horizon. Gazing at the vast forest of reeds, it appears as though the whole world has come together here. It looks like they are standing shoulder to shoulder, endlessly swaying in the wind, yet standing upright, communing with silence. The reeds blow where the wind blows, never defying anything, surrendering to providence; they become part of the oneness in order to give birth to a greater beauty, not once resisting anything in its humbleness—the subservience of the reed to the laws of nature is what makes the reed truly beautiful. No, to put it more precisely, it is not about beauty but adhering to the truth when one yields to the cosmic way. Only men refuse to follow the truth and instead, want to rule over nature. I think I now know a little about what the subservience of the reed signifies. That is why I am ashamed when I behold the reed. I am shameful of the time I spent in defiance of the love that was given to me, and having written poetry without years of surrender. At one time, I viewed surrendering as submission. I sang of how I wanted to die, imperiously, rather than live on my knees. However, I now believe that encountering death is not a shameful act, and surrender, too, must be a part of the truth somewhere in its depths. The name Suncheon means obeying the way of heaven. That is why the name of the city itself strongly signifies a place where people adhere to the order of nature. The beauty of surrender and humility, as they are manifested by the vast reed forest of Suncheon Bay, thus complete the meaning of its name. Like its name, Suncheon is a beautiful ecological city that has co-existed in harmony with nature, and Suncheon Bay clearly proves it. At last, I have arrived at the dock, the central part of Suncheon Bay. The fog is even thicker than usual. I park my bike and begin taking a stroll through the reed forest. It feels like the mist is permeating through the pores of my face and my body. It is refreshing. In the midst of layers of fog, all that is within 100 meters of my view belonged to me. Like a lost child, I walked along only on the path that was visible to me. This reality, which has severed everything from me, has become my world. I am content with this hour, with this reality of mine. Kim Seungok Museum As I walked through the fog, A Trip to Mujin, a novel by Kim Seungok, a writer from Suncheon, came to mind: “No human power could disperse it before the sun rose and the wind from the sea changed its direction. You could not grab it but it was clearly there. It engulfed you and separated you from all distant things. The fog, the Mujin fog, that its people meet every morning, that makes them ache for the sun and the wind.” Mujin, which means “fog dock,” is the setting of the novel A Trip to Mujin. The author seems to have transposed the very landscape of the Daedae Port in the reed forest of Suncheon Bay into his story. He seems to have wanted to state that in order to overcome one’s uncertain grasp of reality, as though one is trapped in the fog and the paradoxes of life, one can only thoroughly live out these uncertainties and contradictions. Going upstream toward the city, one will come across the Kim Seungok Museum and adjacent to it, shrouded in the mist, is the Jeong Chae-bong Museum, which is dedicated to the famous children’s writer. I crossed the Mujin Bridge that leads to the tidal flat. Underneath the bridge, the water divides the tidal flat and makes a path. It is the water from the east stream that passed through the heart of the city early in the morning. While going over the Mujin Bridge in the fog, I felt like I was leaving behind the mundane world. There, at the end of the reed forest, dense with fog, is the Yongsan Observatory. But because of the thick fog, I decided to imagine it instead of climbing to the top. One can enjoy a panoramic view of Suncheon Bay from the observatory. The reed forest in the distance is formed like a body of round islands. Like small floating islands against the wave, the reed forest sways to and fro. It is an indescribable kind of yearning that the fluid round shape of the reed forest elicits. It is derived from the softness in the curvature of the reed forest and the simplified, flattened landscape as seen from high up—sort of like your gentle and kind-hearted older sister who lives in the country. It is a yearning for all that is humble and sincere—a yearning for what we are being consistently deprived of because of the fast pace, competitiveness, and materialism brought about by capitalist urbanization. It is a fundamental yearning for humble things. Suncheon Bay itself is about this yearning. I paint a ship sailing away from Suncheon Bay as well as the birds that soar high above; I’m startled by the sound of this ship in my mind. It is quite enjoyable to use the inner screen of my imagination. To instantly visualize images, which are solely for myself to screen, is equal to the joy of writing. Drawing in my mind the scenes of Suncheon Bay that one might view from the observatory, I walked further along in the fog. Here and there in the forest I could hear the birds that had risen early; shaking off the dampness from their feathers, they are probably remembering their dreams from the night before. They are maybe thinking of another long journey that they have to take. Many birds from Suncheon Bay migrate to Siberia or Australia depending on the season. Suncheon Bay is a mid-point stopover for these migratory birds to rest their weary bodies. It is a resting place for them to replenish their bodies that have lost half of their weight from flying across the ocean. Suncheon Bay provides the best possible layover and food for these fatigued birds. With abundant prey that the enormous tidal flat proffers, and the comfortable sleep that they can get amongst dense reeds, Suncheon Bay has become a most luxurious hotel for the birds. In short, it is a veritable oasis for them. Approximately 160 different kinds of migratory birds are found in Suncheon Bay. Among them, there are 17 that are registered in the international treaty CITES (Convention on International Trade in Endangered Species of Wild Fauna and Flora), including the Saunder’s gull, the stork, the blackfaced spoonbill, the Swinhoe’s egret, and the hooded crane; and also birds such as the Saunder’s gull, the tadorne, the gray-tailed tattler and 15 others, which are officially listed in the Ramsar Convention (the 1971 Convention on Wetlands of International Importance Especially as a Waterfowl Habitat). The hooded cranes, of which there are only about 10,000 left in the world, also prepare for their winter in Suncheon Bay. There is plenty of prey to feed on in the low and high hills around the tidal flat and the quiet surrounding farming villages and agricultural lands. Moreover, the area remains uncontaminated thanks to the profuse inflow of seawater from the islands in the outer sea. Surely, Suncheon Bay is a paradise for the birds that migrate from Australia all the way to Siberia. For them it must be the best place in nature. Birds have to fly from when they are born until they die. Flying is what their life is about. They exist not for destinations like Australia or Siberia but because they must fly. That is because life is not about a purpose but the process. What could be the destiny of birds that must flutter their wings until the day they die? Do they know themselves? If it isn’t the purpose of people to get old and meet death, then what actions are we too destined for? Do we live our lives, aware of what that is? These are the questions I always ask myself when I see soaring birds at Suncheon Bay. But the answer I always get is one I do not understand. Chirp, chirp. What flies must fly. Chirp, chirp. That which walks is what walks. Chirp, chirp. I stop walking and look around to see that the fog has been somewhat lifted. Before long, the tidal flat will show itself and one will be able to see the Suaeda japonica on the surface, like a carpet of red. The flock of birds will ascend to the sky from the red rug along the water passage. And a blazing fire will gradually rise from the sea at the edge of the tidal flat. The reeds will brush against each other, and the sound of people will carry across the tidal flat, the reeds, and the flock of birds. The fog will disappear and another day at Suncheon Bay will begin. I push the pedals of my bike hard and ride toward the city, leaving Suncheon Bay behind me.
by Park Dookyu